In September my partner and I decided to grab a holiday in Kenya - our first trip to East Africa. Both being safari fans we opted for a holiday that we hoped would let us see some of the country's amazing variety, choosing one lodge in Kenya's northern Laikipia region, with a mixture of plains and rugged wooded landscapes, and on adjacent to the Maasai Mara, famed more for its open spaces. Our trip was arranged by Africa Exclusive (http://www.safari.co.uk/), who had done a stunning job with an earlier trip to Botswana in 2010.
Our first destination was Loisaba Lodge (http://www.loisaba.com/) a small camp set in a private 150 km square wilderness area that forms part of a large working cattle ranch. The wilderness area is unfenced and contiguous with other parts of the Laikipia wilderness area. Many of the species you'd expect to see on an African safari are found in the area, including elephant, lion, numerous species of antelope, etc., as well as number of specialities for the region (such as the rather elegant gerenuk - a long-necked antelope - and the beautiful Grevy's zebra) and the birding in the area is also excellent.
The main lodge, communal areas, offices, and guest rooms are all situated at the top of an escarpment, with the main lodge and guest lodges having spectacular views over the valley towards Mount Kenya (though this sadly wasn't visible when we visited as the weather was too hazy). Wildlife was usually on the move along the valley floor, easily visible, and also in the individual gardens for each guest room (we had regular visits from dik-diks, ground squirrels and numerous birds). The main lodge offers fast WiFi (surprisingly good) and a comfortable lounge and dining area (most of the meals are communal, though private dining was also available). Nearby were a spa, small shop (souvenirs mainly), pool (lunch was served here), and tennis court. We were there primarily for the game drives, but for the more adventurous, horse safaris, quad biking, and river rafting were also available. One reason we chose Loisaba was because it offered night drives (not usually available in more strongly regulated national parks), which gave the option of seeing some behaviours and wildlife not often seen during the day.
Individual guest rooms were quite small and lacked some of the space and facilities that might be expected at this price point (especially in comparison with other lodges in southern Africa we've stayed at), but they were comfortable and reasonably well-appointed with mini-bars, fully netted beds, an outside day bed and chairs, and free laundry. Service in general was very good, with staff that were exceptionally friendly, hospitable and ready to deal with all requests. Breakfasts and dinners were solid affairs, being well prepared and executed comfort food (all food and drinks were included in the tariff). Lunches were based largely around a variety of salads and snack dishes, which were perfectly adequate, but not particularly satisfying. The catering in general was competent and filling, rather than particularly adventurous or inspiring.
Although a relaxing experience, however, several aspects of our stay were disappointing. The overall experience didn't compare well with our previous experiences in Botswana, South Africa, and India (or with our later experience at Ol Seki Mara Camp) in terms of the levels of facilities/comfort found in guest rooms or in terms of the food available, especially given the similarity in cost. Perhaps most disappointing was the standard of the game drives, however. As we were there primarily to view game, this was probably the single factor that most marred our stay. Our guide was obviously reasonably knowledgeable about the mammals in the area, but had little interest in communicating much with us on the drives: most of the time was spent driving around looking for some of the more charismatic game, whereas we would have been happier to have spent time looking for other animals as well as the ones many tourists would prefer to see. In particular, it was clear our guide had no real knowledge or interest in the rather amazing bird fauna and it was almost impossible to get him to stop and do any real birdwatching until we had several discussions with him and the camp manager. This also became apparent when we asked to do a bush walk - we spent nearly 1.5 hours in silence with him pointing out almost nothing of interest until asked pointed questions on what we were looking at. The game in the area can be quite difficult to see due to the terrain and it is not as high density as elsewhere in Kenya - however, it is interesting and some of the more spectacular animals for the region are abundant. Big cats are especially elusive - this is the first place in Africa I've not seen big cats. They are in the region (and they have a radio tracker on a lioness, though this didn't help us find her), but very tricky to see. (I should note that other guests were lucky enough to see leopard and lion while we were there). We may have just been unfortunate with our particular guide - other guests with other guides seemed to have few complaints, though most of these were not safari veterans or particular wildlife enthusiasts.
This probably explains some our disappointment - we left with the impression that Loisaba didn't really know what it wanted to be. As some other guests were on weekend trips from Nairobi, rather than doing more extended trips, it could be that they see themselves mainly as a get-away - hence the options for other activities and the spa, with some wildlife thrown in. However, they do heavily market the safari aspect of their offer, so I would expect this to taken more seriously.
One unique thing about Loisaba is their 'star beds' - a partnership with the local Maasai, in which they have several purpose built wooden platforms, at a couple of sites several kilometres from the main camp. These overlook some of the more remote areas and offer the opportunity to sleep under the stars. Each platform has a toilet and camp shower, and is private, accessed by a ladder, and has a covered area at the back and an open area for the bed at the front. This was a nice idea and an evening spent around an open fire on a platform above the bush listening to the sounds of the wildlife was very pleasant. The idea of a night under the stars was appealing and gave some of the romance of earlier safaris, if a bit nerve-wracking (there are lions, leopards and other things to worry about after all). When the sun set the star beds did live up to their name, with gorgeous views of the Milky Way and a pleasant evening of chatting with the guides and other guests on the communal platform nearby. However, the experience was badly let down by two major factors - the catering was poor in comparison with the main lodge (yes, difficult to set up a kitchen in such an area, but there were fixed buildings for this) to the point of being almost inedible in part, and the maintenance of the beds (imagine a mobile cart with a mattress on top covered in mosquito proof nets, quite imaginative) was poor, with old very badly stained pillows and sheets, which just looked dirty.
So, would I recommend it? On the positive side, there is a lot to do, the game is interesting, and the staff are welcoming and efficient. Negatively, there needs to be some more investment in the guest rooms, star beds, and especially in the wildlife offer. I'd unhestitatingly recommend this to someone with only a minor interest in wildlife, who'd enjoy the mix of activities available on a short break, or to a weekender from Nairobi. Sadly, however, I wouldn't recommend it to anyone interested in a specialist wildlife holiday, or for a long stay, although it certainly has potential for these aspects to improve.
Second installment will deal with our camp close to the Maasai Mara.
Sunday, September 29, 2013
Monday, December 28, 2009
Marcus Wareing at the Berkeley
Without doubt, Marcus Wareing serves up the best fine-dining experience in London. It is a constant source of amazement that he has yet to gain the third Michelin star that other - less accomplished, but more famous - restaurants have obtained despite their rather lacklustre offers. I've been lucky enough to eat at Marcus Wareing's Berkeley premises on several occasions, both before and after the much-publicized split with Gordon Ramsey, and have been a fan of his ever since first encountering his food at L'Oranger. My most recent trip, just before Christmas 2009, was nothing less than excellent, in every respect.
As always, the experience starts with being ushered into a deep sofa, being greeted with a champagne cocktail and a set of exquisite little canapés (fois gras and miniature duck spring rolls on this occasion). My partner and I opted for the tasting menu, consisting of seven courses, with amuse bouche to start and truffles and coffee to end. The surroundings in the restaurant are designed to focus on the food - no background noise except the hum of other other diner's conversation and lights subtly dimmed. The whole room feels like it probably consumed most of the UK's annual velvet production, with the result that you eat while slumped and cosseted - a most agreeable way to eat a glorious meal.
The menu opened with an amuse bouche of mushroom soup with a luscious truffle foam served in a shot glass. The light foam and rich soup made a deeply savoury mushroom cappuccino that acted as a perfect opener. This was quickly followed by the first course - fois gras in a sweet and spicy cookie-crumb coat, served with yoghurt and a blackberry coulis. Although slightly wary at first, this rather odd mix worked spectacularly well, with the tartness of the blackberry cutting through the richness of the fois gras and the yoghurt mellowing the whole flavour. Bizarrely, it was almost like eating fois gras muesli and would definitely not have been out of place in a brunch or breakfast menu. As someone who is not a natural fan of fois gras, I've always been impressed by Wareing's use of this ingredient and his establishment is the only place where I actively look forward to a fois gras course.
A small dish of brown crab and marinated mackerel followed, accompanied by slivers of chestnut, pear and chargrilled potato bread. For me, this was the only course that did not work well - although the combination of pear, potato bread and crab worked well, the chestnut added little and felt like it was forced into the dish. As for the mackerel, it was not marinated particularly well and it simply tasted like a piece of mackerel sashimi, which was out of place with the rest of the menu. The next course, roasted quail with a white onion fondue, soon banished thoughts of the limp mackerel. The quail was light and tasty - avoiding the greasiness that is often prevalent with small game birds.
As usual, the scallop course was excellent - with the smoke and spice of chorizo and the unctuousness of a vanilla sauce providing a kaleidoscope of flavours as a background to the sweetness of the perfectly caramelized scallop. Just a little more chorizo would have made this dish soar, but this is really a trivial criticism. Having had lamb on a previous visit, and not liking pigeon, I opted to go off menu for the Aberdeen Angus fillet as my main course. The meat was superb, cooked medium rare and served with a crisp rosti and incredibly potent jus. My partner opted for the pork belly, which he said was also fantastic, with ribbons of crunchy, caramelised fat.
A pre-dessert of tiny, pretty gateaux formed the backdrop to one of the restaurant's real star dishes (one I have had on every visit so far), a warm chocolate moelleux with banana jelly and banana ice cream. This is, without doubt, the most chocolate-rich dessert every invented by man - akin to eating pure cocoa powder dissolved in clotted cream. The banana helps cut through the richness of the chocolate, but I wonder if it is time for a change - maybe a dark fruit coulis (or even a citrus coulis) would be worth a try? The truffles, served in something akin to a Louis XV chandelier, were also excellent, as usual.
Every detail of the service was seamless, from the opening welcome to being shown out of the door. With no notice the kitchens even managed to present me with a small birthday cake, an elegant chocolate covered nougat with beautiful writing in chocolate on a glass stand. (Thanks to my partner spotting another client with one and asking for one for me!). Another thoroughly brilliant exposition of cooking at by far the best dining room in London. Someone has to give him that third star...
As always, the experience starts with being ushered into a deep sofa, being greeted with a champagne cocktail and a set of exquisite little canapés (fois gras and miniature duck spring rolls on this occasion). My partner and I opted for the tasting menu, consisting of seven courses, with amuse bouche to start and truffles and coffee to end. The surroundings in the restaurant are designed to focus on the food - no background noise except the hum of other other diner's conversation and lights subtly dimmed. The whole room feels like it probably consumed most of the UK's annual velvet production, with the result that you eat while slumped and cosseted - a most agreeable way to eat a glorious meal.
The menu opened with an amuse bouche of mushroom soup with a luscious truffle foam served in a shot glass. The light foam and rich soup made a deeply savoury mushroom cappuccino that acted as a perfect opener. This was quickly followed by the first course - fois gras in a sweet and spicy cookie-crumb coat, served with yoghurt and a blackberry coulis. Although slightly wary at first, this rather odd mix worked spectacularly well, with the tartness of the blackberry cutting through the richness of the fois gras and the yoghurt mellowing the whole flavour. Bizarrely, it was almost like eating fois gras muesli and would definitely not have been out of place in a brunch or breakfast menu. As someone who is not a natural fan of fois gras, I've always been impressed by Wareing's use of this ingredient and his establishment is the only place where I actively look forward to a fois gras course.
A small dish of brown crab and marinated mackerel followed, accompanied by slivers of chestnut, pear and chargrilled potato bread. For me, this was the only course that did not work well - although the combination of pear, potato bread and crab worked well, the chestnut added little and felt like it was forced into the dish. As for the mackerel, it was not marinated particularly well and it simply tasted like a piece of mackerel sashimi, which was out of place with the rest of the menu. The next course, roasted quail with a white onion fondue, soon banished thoughts of the limp mackerel. The quail was light and tasty - avoiding the greasiness that is often prevalent with small game birds.
As usual, the scallop course was excellent - with the smoke and spice of chorizo and the unctuousness of a vanilla sauce providing a kaleidoscope of flavours as a background to the sweetness of the perfectly caramelized scallop. Just a little more chorizo would have made this dish soar, but this is really a trivial criticism. Having had lamb on a previous visit, and not liking pigeon, I opted to go off menu for the Aberdeen Angus fillet as my main course. The meat was superb, cooked medium rare and served with a crisp rosti and incredibly potent jus. My partner opted for the pork belly, which he said was also fantastic, with ribbons of crunchy, caramelised fat.
A pre-dessert of tiny, pretty gateaux formed the backdrop to one of the restaurant's real star dishes (one I have had on every visit so far), a warm chocolate moelleux with banana jelly and banana ice cream. This is, without doubt, the most chocolate-rich dessert every invented by man - akin to eating pure cocoa powder dissolved in clotted cream. The banana helps cut through the richness of the chocolate, but I wonder if it is time for a change - maybe a dark fruit coulis (or even a citrus coulis) would be worth a try? The truffles, served in something akin to a Louis XV chandelier, were also excellent, as usual.
Every detail of the service was seamless, from the opening welcome to being shown out of the door. With no notice the kitchens even managed to present me with a small birthday cake, an elegant chocolate covered nougat with beautiful writing in chocolate on a glass stand. (Thanks to my partner spotting another client with one and asking for one for me!). Another thoroughly brilliant exposition of cooking at by far the best dining room in London. Someone has to give him that third star...
Saturday, October 24, 2009
Palazzo Sasso
The tiny town of Ravello sits in the hills above Amalfi and has views that Gore Vidal described as 'the best in the world'. Although I wouldn't go this far (being more impressed by wild landscapes), the view is certainly ravishing - the craggy limestone coast snaking hazily into the distance with numerous picture postcard Italian towns and villages, each with their own miniature duomo, nestling in the valleys below. Palazzo Sasso has some of the finest views in Ravello, and the beautifully landscaped terraces at the back of the hotel provide a relaxing backdrop to gawp at the scene below while sipping a glass of decent local vino.
The hotel (http://www.palazzosasso.com/) has a Moorish look to it - high arched windows, geometric designs and numerous atria and open courtyards. Cars are banned from the centre of Ravello so the transfer drops you a few paces down the street: the first impression that you get walking down the narrow, stone-lined alleys is one of comfortable genteel decay. Numerous grand buildings and villas surround you, with just enough shabbiness that one might call it genuine character. This is definitely a good thing as Ravello feels comfortable with itself - and ruins of older villas dot the town, mixed with newer, though still ramshackle buildings - there is no aspic preserved part and it feels lived in, rather than spruced-up for the hell of it. The hotel looks rather unpretentious externally, but once through the door you fall headlong into a very discreet and commodious luxury.
Check-in was flawless, the staff helpful and friendly and we were quickly whisked to our room and a complimentary bottle of the local fizz. Rooms are decent-sized and ours had a small balcony that we could sit on with the full spread of the Amalfi Coast below us. The enormous bed came with not only a pillow menu (which seems to be becoming increasing popular in similar establishments), but also with a sheet menu, which included satin and silk. Rooms had wooden floors and were simply decorated, which gave them a real feeling of space and coolness, making them a good retreat when the the weather became too hot or muggy. Housekeeping was also seamless - incredibly discreet and efficient - we never once had to wait while our room was made - and room service was prompt and courteous at all times. Public areas of the hotel were tastefully decorated with subdued works of art and the ground floor was perfumed by pomegranate oils, which gave the whole place a rather indulgent air. The sound of running water from small fountains and waterfalls accompanied the view when sitting in the open air restaurant or on one of the terraces (there were several of these, one boasting an heated open pool).
One reason we chose Palazzo Sasso was that it's restaurant, Rossellini's, boast two Michelin stars and service claimed by Condé Nest to be among the best in the world. However, we found the restaurant to be a bit of a disappointment. In some cases food was similar in standard to that we have had elsewhere - my crab ravioli was competent and the turbot in black bread was interesting (though stu's tuna serving was tiny, if good) - but nothing particularly special and certainly not as exciting as anything we have had in other two star venues. Service was generally competent, if somewhat bland (particularly the maitre 'd, who seemed to have had a charisma by-pass), until near the end of the meal, when it went askew (it took over 30 mins to get our bill). The restaurant also doubles as the breakfast room and this mixing of functions didn't really work as the light airy look you want at breakfast doesn't really work at dinner time - the bright lighting, hard floors and pumped muzak (similar to that in your average shopping centre elevator) really destroyed any attempt at an atmosphere. As a result, we only ate there once and explored other places in Ravello when it came to dinner time.
Ravello itself is charming - perhaps the perfect idea of a small Italian hill town. The duomo is imposing if unusually plain, and dominates the central square from which radiates a small warren of narrow steep lanes. The town is very small and possesses only a couple of local restaurants, which do a roaring trade as a consequence. The town prides itself on its classical music festival (which we'd just missed), but does regular concerts throughout the year in the Villa Rufolo (famous for its gardens, which we didn't visit). We did manage a night time concert (a piano recital, tickets arranged for us very efficiently by the hotel), which was entertaining if not of the highest standard (I know this is snobbish, but living in London spoils you in terms of top-flight international performances). Aside from sitting in the town square with a cappuccino, we also tried two local restaurants. Cumpa Cosimo, a great family owned and run trattoria, presided over by a formidable and exceptionally entertaining matriarch, provided terrific charcuterie and pasta. On the opposite side of the piazza was Vittoria, where we had excellent pizzas and possibly one of the best meals I've had in Italy, a beef fillet flavoured with sharp blackberries and garlic (a surprisingly good mix).
We also spent some time out of Ravello - Amalfi is an exceptionally pretty town and well worth wandering around for a few hours. Pompeii is spectacular and the walk up Vesuvius allowed me to notch up my first visit to a famous volcano (plumes of sulphurous steam included). Unfortunately, without a car, it's quite difficult to get from Ravello to Pompeii (even though it's not too far: public transport takes around 3 hours each way), which means you have to rely on a tour (which we did), meaning limited time, or on a private car (hiring taxis was outrageously expensive, and made London black cabs look like they offer a subsidised social service). I'd suggest if in this part of the world and Pompeii is high on your list either visit it from Naples before heading to the coast or stay somewhere on the coast where public transport to Pompeii is easier (e.g. Sorrento).
Palazzo Sasso can certainly be proud of itself and earns everyone of its five stars - a beautiful venue with excellent standards. Sadly, Rossellini's did not live up to expectations, but even here a little more invention with the food and, in particular, a boost to the service and ambiance could really allow the restaurant to fly.
The hotel (http://www.palazzosasso.com/) has a Moorish look to it - high arched windows, geometric designs and numerous atria and open courtyards. Cars are banned from the centre of Ravello so the transfer drops you a few paces down the street: the first impression that you get walking down the narrow, stone-lined alleys is one of comfortable genteel decay. Numerous grand buildings and villas surround you, with just enough shabbiness that one might call it genuine character. This is definitely a good thing as Ravello feels comfortable with itself - and ruins of older villas dot the town, mixed with newer, though still ramshackle buildings - there is no aspic preserved part and it feels lived in, rather than spruced-up for the hell of it. The hotel looks rather unpretentious externally, but once through the door you fall headlong into a very discreet and commodious luxury.
Check-in was flawless, the staff helpful and friendly and we were quickly whisked to our room and a complimentary bottle of the local fizz. Rooms are decent-sized and ours had a small balcony that we could sit on with the full spread of the Amalfi Coast below us. The enormous bed came with not only a pillow menu (which seems to be becoming increasing popular in similar establishments), but also with a sheet menu, which included satin and silk. Rooms had wooden floors and were simply decorated, which gave them a real feeling of space and coolness, making them a good retreat when the the weather became too hot or muggy. Housekeeping was also seamless - incredibly discreet and efficient - we never once had to wait while our room was made - and room service was prompt and courteous at all times. Public areas of the hotel were tastefully decorated with subdued works of art and the ground floor was perfumed by pomegranate oils, which gave the whole place a rather indulgent air. The sound of running water from small fountains and waterfalls accompanied the view when sitting in the open air restaurant or on one of the terraces (there were several of these, one boasting an heated open pool).
One reason we chose Palazzo Sasso was that it's restaurant, Rossellini's, boast two Michelin stars and service claimed by Condé Nest to be among the best in the world. However, we found the restaurant to be a bit of a disappointment. In some cases food was similar in standard to that we have had elsewhere - my crab ravioli was competent and the turbot in black bread was interesting (though stu's tuna serving was tiny, if good) - but nothing particularly special and certainly not as exciting as anything we have had in other two star venues. Service was generally competent, if somewhat bland (particularly the maitre 'd, who seemed to have had a charisma by-pass), until near the end of the meal, when it went askew (it took over 30 mins to get our bill). The restaurant also doubles as the breakfast room and this mixing of functions didn't really work as the light airy look you want at breakfast doesn't really work at dinner time - the bright lighting, hard floors and pumped muzak (similar to that in your average shopping centre elevator) really destroyed any attempt at an atmosphere. As a result, we only ate there once and explored other places in Ravello when it came to dinner time.
Ravello itself is charming - perhaps the perfect idea of a small Italian hill town. The duomo is imposing if unusually plain, and dominates the central square from which radiates a small warren of narrow steep lanes. The town is very small and possesses only a couple of local restaurants, which do a roaring trade as a consequence. The town prides itself on its classical music festival (which we'd just missed), but does regular concerts throughout the year in the Villa Rufolo (famous for its gardens, which we didn't visit). We did manage a night time concert (a piano recital, tickets arranged for us very efficiently by the hotel), which was entertaining if not of the highest standard (I know this is snobbish, but living in London spoils you in terms of top-flight international performances). Aside from sitting in the town square with a cappuccino, we also tried two local restaurants. Cumpa Cosimo, a great family owned and run trattoria, presided over by a formidable and exceptionally entertaining matriarch, provided terrific charcuterie and pasta. On the opposite side of the piazza was Vittoria, where we had excellent pizzas and possibly one of the best meals I've had in Italy, a beef fillet flavoured with sharp blackberries and garlic (a surprisingly good mix).
We also spent some time out of Ravello - Amalfi is an exceptionally pretty town and well worth wandering around for a few hours. Pompeii is spectacular and the walk up Vesuvius allowed me to notch up my first visit to a famous volcano (plumes of sulphurous steam included). Unfortunately, without a car, it's quite difficult to get from Ravello to Pompeii (even though it's not too far: public transport takes around 3 hours each way), which means you have to rely on a tour (which we did), meaning limited time, or on a private car (hiring taxis was outrageously expensive, and made London black cabs look like they offer a subsidised social service). I'd suggest if in this part of the world and Pompeii is high on your list either visit it from Naples before heading to the coast or stay somewhere on the coast where public transport to Pompeii is easier (e.g. Sorrento).
Palazzo Sasso can certainly be proud of itself and earns everyone of its five stars - a beautiful venue with excellent standards. Sadly, Rossellini's did not live up to expectations, but even here a little more invention with the food and, in particular, a boost to the service and ambiance could really allow the restaurant to fly.
Sunday, October 18, 2009
Welcome to the blog
In this blog I plan to review those hotels, restaurants and other establishments that I've been fortunate enough to visit as part of my travel around the world. Most of my journeys are work-related, but I'm also fortunate enough to have vacationed in a number of interesting and exotic places. My intention is to give a guide to those things I've enjoyed and cautionary tales about those things I haven't. I don't intend to act as a travel agent so I won't be providing reams of background information on each establishment or details of rates/how to book etc, though an up-to-date URL will be given where available. I hope it's of some help to you in finding nice places to eat and stay while you bustle around the globe.
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